A dripping faucet has a way of getting into your head. It is quiet enough to ignore during the day and loud enough to keep you awake at night. It is also an honest little warning: something inside the fixture has worn out, and water is slipping through a gap that should be sealed. The good news is that the part responsible usually costs a few dollars, and most people can replace it in under an hour with a handful of basic tools.

This guide walks you through the whole job in six steps, from shutting off the water to testing your repair. Along the way you will learn how to work out which type of faucet you own, which parts typically fail, and how to avoid the mistakes that turn a simple fix into a flooded cabinet. You will also find clear advice on when a repair no longer makes sense and a plumber or a new fixture is the better call.

Key takeaways

  • Most leaks come from a worn rubber washer, O-ring, seat, or cartridge, not from the faucet body itself.
  • Shut off the water first, then open the faucet to relieve pressure and plug the drain so small parts cannot disappear.
  • Identify your faucet type before buying parts. Compression, cartridge, ball, and ceramic disc faucets each have different internals.
  • Take the old part with you to the store, or photograph it, and match it exactly.
  • Do not overtighten fittings. Snug plus a small turn is usually enough, and brute force cracks fixtures.
  • Call a plumber for corroded shutoff valves, leaks inside the wall, low water pressure throughout the house, or any repair that makes you uneasy.

Why a faucet drips

The simple physics of a leak

A faucet is just a valve. When you turn the handle off, a soft seal presses against a hard seat and stops the flow. Over months and years, the rubber hardens, the seat gets scratched by minerals, or the cartridge wears, and a thin path opens for water. Household water pressure, which in most US homes sits between 40 and 80 pounds per square inch, keeps pushing through that path one drop at a time.

How much water a drip really wastes

A slow drip of one drop every couple of seconds adds up to a few gallons a day, and a faster drip can waste much more. You can measure your own: put a measuring cup under the spout for ten minutes, multiply by 144, and you have the daily total. Hot-water leaks cost twice, since you pay for the water and the energy to heat it. Besides wasting water, a constant drip can stain a sink and, if the leak is under the faucet, rot a vanity or cabinet floor.

Where the water shows up tells you what failed

Where it leaks Most likely culprit
From the spout when the faucet is off Worn washer and seat, or a bad cartridge or disc
Around the base of the handle Worn O-ring or loose packing nut
Around the base of the spout Worn spout O-rings
Beneath the sink on the supply lines Loose or failing supply connection
Only when the sprayer is used Diverter valve or hose connection

Know your faucet before you start

The four common types

Compression faucets are the oldest design. They have two separate handles, one for hot and one for cold, and you feel the handle tighten as it squeezes a rubber washer against a seat. These leak at the spout when the washer wears and around the handle when the packing or O-ring fails.

Cartridge faucets may have one handle or two. Inside is a cartridge, a cylinder that slides or rotates to control flow and temperature. A worn cartridge or its O-rings is the usual cause of leaks.

Ball faucets have a single handle sitting on a rounded cap above the spout. Inside, a slotted ball and rubber seats and springs control the mix. They have more small parts, so they leak more often, but repair kits are inexpensive and widely available.

Ceramic disc faucets have a single lever and a wide cylindrical cartridge holding two ceramic discs. They are durable and rarely drip, but when they do, the problem is usually the neoprene seals under the disc or mineral buildup.

How to tell which one you have

Two handles that turn around and around over many rotations suggest compression. Handles that turn a quarter turn or less on two-handle faucets often indicate ceramic discs. A single lever that moves up and down and side to side could be a cartridge, ball, or disc design. If you cannot tell, remove the handle and look. Check the manufacturer name, usually printed on the handle or the spout, and search the model online for a parts diagram.

Tools and supplies

Gather everything before you start so you do not have to leave the job half done with the water off.

  • Adjustable wrench and, if possible, a basin wrench for hard-to-reach nuts
  • Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
  • Allen (hex) key set, since many handles use a small set screw
  • Needle-nose pliers and a small utility knife or pick for prying out O-rings
  • Rags or an old towel to protect the sink and give you something to dry with
  • Plumber’s grease, which is silicone-based and safe for potable water systems
  • White vinegar and an old toothbrush for cleaning mineral deposits
  • Replacement parts: a washer and O-ring assortment, a cartridge, or a repair kit made for your faucet
  • A small bowl to hold screws and parts, and a flashlight
  • Safety glasses

Wrap the jaws of the wrench with a layer of masking tape or a rag to protect the finish on chrome, nickel, and bronze parts. Chrome is thin and scratches easily.

Step 1: Shut off the water and prepare the sink

Find the shutoff valves

Look under the sink for two small valves, one on each supply line, usually with oval or round handles. Turn each one clockwise until it stops. These are called fixture shutoffs, or angle stops. Turn them gently. If a valve is stiff, corroded, or starts to drip when you touch it, stop. Do not force it. Shut off the main water supply to the house instead and call a plumber to replace the valve afterward.

Relieve the pressure and protect the drain

Open the faucet in the middle position for a hot and cold mix, and let the remaining water drain. If water keeps flowing after a minute, the shutoff is not sealing and you should use the main valve. Then put the stopper in the drain, or stuff a rag into it, so that a dropped screw or tiny spring does not vanish. Lay a towel in the bottom of the basin to cushion the fall of heavy parts and prevent scratches.

Take a quick photo

Before touching anything, take a photograph of the faucet from several angles. As you take each part off, lay it out on the towel in order. This simple habit is the best insurance when you put everything back together.

Step 2: Remove the handle

Find the hidden screw

Most handles are held by a screw that is hidden under a decorative cap. Pry the cap off with a small flathead screwdriver or the tip of a utility knife, working carefully so you do not gouge it. The cap may also unscrew by hand. On some designs, a small set screw sits on the side or the back of the handle, and you will need an Allen key.

Lift the handle free

Once the screw is out, pull the handle straight up. If it is stuck from mineral buildup, wrap a rag around it and wiggle it back and forth, or soak a rag in warm vinegar and wrap it around the base for 15 to 30 minutes. A handle puller, available at hardware stores, helps with stubborn ones. Never pry against the sink surface or hammer on the handle, which can crack porcelain or damage the stem.

Step 3: Take the faucet apart

The steps differ by type. Use your photos and keep parts in order.

Compression faucets

Remove the decorative escutcheon cap if there is one. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the packing nut, then lift out the stem. At the bottom of the stem you will see a rubber washer held by a small screw. Remove it and look at the brass seat inside the faucet body. A rough or pitted seat can be smoothed with a seat dresser tool or replaced with a new seat, which is removed with a seat wrench.

Cartridge faucets

Remove the retaining nut or clip that holds the cartridge in place. Pull the cartridge straight out. Some require twisting or a special puller. Note the orientation, because it must go back the same way, with the notches or tabs aligned. On single-handle models, the hot side and cold side matter, and installing it backward reverses them.

Ball faucets

Use the tool included in a repair kit or a pair of pliers to loosen the adjusting ring, then unscrew the cap. Lift out the cam, the washer, and the ball. Beneath it, you will see two rubber seats with small springs. Pry these out with a small screwdriver. Keep track of the position of the ball: a small pin or slot lines up with a notch in the body.

Ceramic disc faucets

Unscrew the escutcheon cap and the screws holding the cylinder. Lift it out and you will see small neoprene seals on the underside. Replace those, or the whole cartridge if the discs are cracked or scratched.

Step 4: Inspect, clean, and replace the worn parts

What to look for

Examine the washers, O-rings, and seals. Worn ones are flattened, cracked, hardened, or look chewed. Check metal surfaces for pitting or white crust. Look inside the faucet body for debris and sediment. If you notice any corrosion that has eaten into the body, replacing the entire faucet is wiser than patching it.

Cleaning mineral deposits

Hard water leaves chalky scale that can keep parts from sealing. Soak small metal and plastic parts in white vinegar for a few hours, then scrub gently with an old toothbrush and rinse. Do not soak rubber parts for long, since vinegar can degrade them, and do not use harsh abrasives or steel wool on chrome. Clean the aerator at the end of the spout as well. Unscrew it, rinse the screen, and soak it in vinegar if clogged.

Getting the right replacement

Take the old washer, O-ring, or cartridge with you to the store and match it by size, shape, and thickness. Do not guess. An O-ring that is slightly too large will not seal, and one that is too small will stretch and fail. If the faucet is a recognizable brand, look up the model number to find the exact cartridge. When in doubt, buy a universal assortment of O-rings and washers as a backup, since they cost very little.

Faucet type Parts that usually need replacing Typical difficulty
Compression Washer, O-ring, sometimes the seat Easy
Cartridge Whole cartridge or its O-rings Easy to moderate
Ball Seats, springs, O-rings, sometimes the ball Moderate
Ceramic disc Neoprene seals or cartridge Easy to moderate

Step 5: Reassemble carefully

Lubricate and seat the parts

Put a light film of plumber’s grease on new O-rings and on the threads of the stem or cartridge. Use only grease approved for drinking water systems, and do not use petroleum jelly, which can swell rubber. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal, checking your photos at each stage.

Tighten with care

Thread each nut by hand first so that you do not cross-thread it. Then snug it with a wrench. Over-tightening can crush seals, crack plastic, and make the handle hard to turn. Hand tight plus an eighth to a quarter turn is a good rule for most fittings. Make sure the cartridge or stem is fully seated before tightening the nut that holds it. Put the handle back on, tighten the set screw, and snap on the cap.

Step 6: Turn the water on and test

Restore the water slowly

Leave the faucet handle open in the middle. Turn the shutoff valves back on slowly, a quarter turn at a time, so air can escape through the spout. You may hear sputtering for a few seconds, which is normal. Let the water run for a minute to flush out loose debris, then remove the aerator briefly to rinse out any particles that came loose, and put it back.

Check for leaks

Turn the faucet off, and dry everything with a towel. Look at the spout, the base of the handle, and the base of the faucet. Place a dry paper towel or tissue under the faucet and under the supply connections and check it again after an hour, and then again the next morning. If the faucet continues to drip, shut off the water and recheck the seat, the seals, and the fit of the cartridge. A new but wrongly sized part is a common cause of a drip that will not go away.

Fixing other types of faucet leaks

Leaks at the handle

If water oozes up around the handle when the water is on, the culprit is generally an O-ring on the stem or cartridge, or a loose packing nut. Tighten the packing nut slightly, and if that does not help, replace the O-ring.

Leaks at the base of a swivel spout

Kitchen faucets with a swivel spout have O-rings where the spout meets the body. Pull the spout straight up after loosening the retaining nut or set screw, slide the old O-rings off, clean the groove, and install new ones with a little plumber’s grease.

Leaks under the sink

If water pools beneath the sink, determine whether it is coming from the supply lines, the shutoff valves, or the drain. Dry everything and run a dry tissue along each connection to find the wet one. Supply line nuts can usually be snugged by a quarter turn. Braided stainless steel supply lines last about five to ten years, and replacing a suspect one is cheap and simple. If a shutoff valve drips from the stem, try tightening the packing nut a small amount; if it drips from the body, replace it, or call a plumber.

Low flow or sputtering after the repair

Weak flow often means debris in the aerator or a partially closed shutoff valve. Remove the aerator and clean the screen. Make sure both shutoffs are fully open. If only one side is weak, remove the cartridge and inspect it for sediment.

Safety notes

  • Water first. Confirm that the water is off by opening the faucet before disassembly. A shutoff valve that does not fully close can turn a quick repair into a flood.
  • Electricity near water. If an outlet, garbage disposal, or under-sink water heater is nearby, keep cords and hands dry, and turn off the circuit if there is any chance of splashing.
  • Hot water. Let hot lines cool before working. The water in a hot pipe can scald, and a hot-water tank is set to 120 degrees Fahrenheit (49 degrees Celsius) for safety.
  • Chemicals. Do not mix vinegar with bleach or drain cleaner. Do not combine cleaning products, and ventilate the room if you use any commercial scale remover. Keep chemicals away from children and pets.
  • Lead. Homes built before 1986 may have lead solder or brass fixtures. If your home is old, the EPA recommends running cold water until it turns noticeably colder before using it for drinking or cooking, and testing your water if you are concerned. New fixtures sold in the US must meet low-lead standards.
  • Eyes and hands. Springs can fly and old parts can be sharp. Wear safety glasses and keep your fingers away from pinch points.
  • Under-sink posture. Lie on a folded towel with a headlamp, and take breaks. Rushing while cramped is how knuckles get skinned and parts get dropped.

Common mistakes

  • Skipping the shutoff test. Always open the faucet after closing the valves to confirm that the flow stops.
  • Forgetting to plug the drain. A small screw or spring gone down the drain means a trip to disassemble the trap.
  • Buying parts by guess. Faucet parts look similar and are not interchangeable. Match them exactly.
  • Using the wrong grease or sealant. Only use silicone plumber’s grease. Petroleum products damage rubber, and household oils can contaminate drinking water.
  • Overtightening. This cracks fittings and crushes seals, creating new leaks.
  • Reusing worn seals. If you have gone to the trouble of taking it apart, replace every washer and O-ring in the faucet, not just the one that looks the worst.
  • Ignoring a sticky shutoff valve. Forcing it can break it and cause a flood.
  • Not testing the next day. Some slow leaks only show up after the water has been sitting under pressure for a few hours.

Repair or replace?

Most of the time, repairing is the better value. But there are good reasons to put in a new faucet. If the finish is worn through, if the body is corroded or cracked, if replacement parts are no longer made, or if you have repaired the same faucet several times in a year, a new one may cost less than the time you spend. A new faucet is also a chance to upgrade to a WaterSense labeled model, which is certified by the EPA to use at most 1.5 gallons per minute for bathroom faucets, a modest saving compared with the older 2.2 gallon standard.

If you choose to replace the faucet, the basics are similar: shut off the water, disconnect the supply lines, remove the mounting nuts with a basin wrench, and install the new faucet by following its instructions. Check that the new fixture matches your sink’s hole count and spacing.

When to call a professional

This is a manageable job for most homeowners, yet there are times when a licensed plumber is the right choice.

  • The shutoff valves are frozen, corroded, or leak when you turn them.
  • You see signs of a leak behind a wall or under the floor, such as a water stain, a musty smell, or a spike in your water bill.
  • The faucet is a high-end or wall-mounted model with a concealed rough-in valve.
  • Pipes are galvanized steel, which corrode from the inside, or you see green crusty corrosion on copper fittings.
  • Water pressure is low throughout the house, or the pipes bang loudly when you turn a faucet off, which can point to a problem with a pressure regulator or air chambers.
  • The leak persists after you have replaced the parts.
  • You are not comfortable shutting off and draining the house system, or you notice the water has an unusual color, taste, or smell.

A plumber can usually complete a faucet repair within an hour and will often fix several small issues in the same visit, so it is worth making a short list of other nagging items, such as a running toilet or a slow drain. Ask for a written estimate, confirm they are licensed in your state, and ask whether parts and labor are warranted.

Keeping faucets healthy for years

A few small habits can prolong the life of your faucets. Close handles gently instead of cranking them off hard, which wears seals faster. Wipe fixtures dry after use in hard-water areas, and clean aerators every few months. Exercise the shutoff valves once or twice a year by turning them off and on again so they do not seize. If you have hard water, consider a whole-house or under-sink water treatment option after you have tested your water, because scale is the enemy of every seal and cartridge in the house. Replace braided supply lines every five to ten years, especially before a vacation or long absence.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to fix a leaky faucet?

For a first-timer, plan on one to two hours, including a trip to the store. Once you know your faucet type and have the parts, the actual repair often takes only 20 to 40 minutes.

How much does a replacement part cost?

Washers and O-rings are typically a few dollars for an assortment. Cartridges and ball faucet kits cost more, usually between about 10 and 40 dollars depending on the brand. A plumber’s service call costs more but includes the diagnosis and a guarantee on the work.

Why is my faucet still dripping after I replaced the washer?

The seat might be pitted or rough, which prevents a tight seal, or the new washer may be the wrong size or poorly seated. Inspect the seat with a flashlight and a fingertip, and either resurface it with a seat dresser or replace it.

Can I fix a leaky faucet without turning off the water?

No. Always shut off the supply first. Working on a pressurized faucet will spray water and can cause real damage. If your fixture shutoffs fail, use the main valve for the house.

Why does my faucet drip only when the water is hot?

The hot side has a worn seal or cartridge. Heat speeds the wear on rubber and plastic. You may only need to replace the parts on the hot side, although replacing both is a good idea if they are the same age.

Is a dripping faucet really worth fixing?

Yes. Even a slow drip wastes thousands of gallons per year, and the fix costs little. Left alone, the drip can also stain the sink, grow mineral deposits, and lead to moisture damage under the sink.

What is the white or green crust around my faucet?

White crust is mineral scale from hard water and can be removed with vinegar. Green or blue crust on brass or copper indicates corrosion and often means a slow leak at that spot. Clean the area, dry it, and watch to see whether moisture returns.

Do I need to replace the whole faucet if the cartridge is discontinued?

Not always. Many universal cartridges and aftermarket parts fit older models, and a plumbing supply store can often match a sample. If nothing fits and the fixture is worn, replacing it is reasonable.

There is a small, quiet pleasure in finishing a repair like this. You turn the handle, the water stops, and the kitchen goes silent for the first time in weeks. Take your time, keep your parts in order, and trust your photos. If something goes sideways, the shutoff valve is your friend and a plumber is a phone call away. Most of the time, though, a little patience and a few dollars of rubber are all it takes to put the drip to rest.